A Look at Styles of Japanese Street Fashion
Japanese street fashion refers to outfits that are personally customized by the wearer using a mix of old and new styles. Hip-hop music, which has always been popular in Japan’s underground clubs, is a particular influence on street fashion as the youth imitate the style of dress of their favorite hip-hop stars.
Despite street fashion’s home-made aesthetic, a number of distinct looks and styles have emerged, which young adults can be seen sporting in major urban fashion districts such as Ginza, Harajuku and Shibuya. One interesting observation about Japanese street fashion is that particular styles seem linked to particular districts in Tokyo.
Lolita fashion has emerged as one of the more recognizable styles in Japanese street fashion, and is now generating a large amount of interest abroad. Although the name Lolita is a reference to the precociously sexual adolescent of the Nabokov novel (and its subsequent film adaptations), Lolita fashions are not overtly sensual but rather strive to evoke more child-like qualities such as cuteness. Sub-categories within this style include Gothic, Sweet and Classic; Gothic Lolita has, however, emerged as the predominant look.
The Gothic Lolita look is intended to evoke that of a Victorian-era porcelain doll, with black and white outfits decorated with ribbons and lace, knee-length skirts with a crinoline to add volume, and shoes or boots with high heels. Accessories may include tiny top hats, parasols, lace gloves and Alice in Wonderland-like aprons. This look has become well-established and is available in various boutiques and some big department stores.
Sweet Lolita, in contrast, emphasizes pastel colors and a very childish look with lots of lace and ribbons. Popular accessories include tiny purses, stuffed animals and large headbows. Classic Lolita, meanwhile, highlights a more traditional, mature look using light colors such as blue, green and red.
Ganguro literally means “black-face” and is a look characterized by the wearer sporting a dark tan, bleached hair and black and white eyeliner. Ganguro outfits are typically brightly-colored, mini-skirts or tie-dyed sarongs. At their most extreme, Ganguro followers sported white lipstick, bleached platinum blonde hair, pastel eye shadow and glitter on the bottom rim of their eyes. Its popularity peaked from the late-90s up to the early-00s.
Kogal refers to a subculture of girls in urban Japan who conspicuously flaunt their disposable income through their unique tastes in fashion. The Kogal look evokes that of the California Valley girl, with tans, platform boots, miniskirts and a lot of makeup. Kogals also wear outfits derived from high school uniforms, but with shorter skirts and loose socks. Although similar, Kogals are not to be confused with Ganguros.
Cosplay is short for costume play and is popular in places like the Harajuku district. Cosplay wears dress up in elaborate and typically home-made costumes inspired by their favorite manga, anime, video game, pop band or movie character.
Other styles of Japanese street fashion include Bosozoku (which is named after a Japanese subculture centered on motorcycle gangs) and Visual Kei. A typical Bosozoku style consists of a uniform consisting of a jumpsuit or a tokko-fuku military overcoat worn open with no shirt underneath, and matching baggy pants tucked into heavy boots. Visual kei is characterized by flamboyant makeup, costumes and hair styling. Visual kei styles may often, but not always, sport an androgynous look.
